Arriving in Haifa in 1987, my journey took me down through the hills to the north of Galilee to a village on the shores of the lake. On the way, I lay down in a meadow rich in wild flowers and watched Israeli airforce jets practicing dogfighting. There I joined a taxi tour of the Golan Heights and helped deliver loafs of bread to a UN border post.

Then on to Jerusalem and Tel Aviv.

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